Southern Kailash

March 12, 2017 - view from seventh hill, Velliangiri Hills

One of the toughest pilgrimages in South India, coincidentally also known as the Southern Kailash (Then Kailayam) - is a pristine mountain range in Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. It is revered as one of the abodes of Lord Shiva, and accessible by foot passing through Seven Hills. The hills are also home to many siddhar (type of saints) and sunai (natural springs).

The trek that takes 5-6 hours one way for a fit person, is usually taken up by pilgrims barefoot (the hills are considered sacred), with a bamboo pole for support. Its worth mentioning that the entry is controlled by the forest department, and they allow access only from February to May. Due to the daytime heat, the trek is usually taken up overnight and ends sometime early next day. Full moon nights are preferred as moonlight helps treading the tricky path at many places.

We followed suit and started our trek at around midnight. There was a huge rush of pilgrims owing to the full moon night. Weather was quite pleasant. Traversing the seven hills is quite daunting even though they look unassuming from afar (with exception of seventh hill). Many makeshift shops sell refreshments, and a local specialty called sukku kaapi (dried ginger coffee). The first three hills have some kind of steps laid out, from fourth hill it is mostly loose soil and rocks. While the ascent is difficult, the descent presents different kind of challenges. A more detailed account of the experience is posted in Kailash of the South.

March 12, 2017 - shrine on top, Velliangiri Hills

Although memories of the entire journey is etched in my mind, there were some highlights:

• Watching the shimmering lights of Coimbatore city till the wee hours of morning
• Trekking in hills washed with milky moonlight
• Drinking cups of sukku kaapi
• Separating (unintentional) from my group and traversing the flat fifth hill
• Walking over ash-like soil on sixth hill (Thiruneer malai)
• Freezing at the first view of the seventh hill silhouetted against a moonlight sky
• Reuniting with group members at Andi Sunai
• Watching the day break while ascending Seventh Hill
• Huge rush and long queue at the top near the shrine
• Being dazed and mesmerized at the view of Swayambhu linga (self manifestation) of Lord Shiva at the top
• Using bamboo pole to prevent slipping and sliding while descending seventh hill
• Resting under a huge rock as the heat intensified
• Refilling water bottles at Pambatti sunai, and resting
• Darting into sparse shadows to avoid getting the feet burnt on steps
• Kambu koozhu (pearl millet porridge) for the final burst of energy
  
• Defying exhaustion and agony by chanting Om Namah Shivaya
• Renewed vigour at sight of the temple at foothills, signifying the end of pilgrimage
• Washing feet in cold tap water and drinking the same to relieve dehydration
• Feeling of burning feet despite placing them on smooth/cold surface
• Failing to eat the free meal offered in temple at the base
• The honey cake at a bakery on the way home
• The sense of achievement of completing the Southern Kailash pilgrimage 
• Waking up next day with (enjoyable) body ache

Overall it took us 13 hours to complete the pilgrimage. I can't explain in words how eventful those 13 hours were. Till date, it has been the most challenging trek for me. The toughest test of my physical and mental endurance. In the end it is a befitting effort for a pilgrimage to Southern Kailash!